MabelandMillieMediumDoodlePups

Lured Heel Step 1 : Sits in the yard (increasing the distraction): Still Sit Stays in the Yard (increasing distraction): Sit Stays with New Distraction ( Circle Sit Stays ): Long Place Millie and Mabel together (with toys so they learn not to interfere as much with the other's toys): Demo of Walking Both Millie and Mabel on Transitional Leash :

NOTE ON STAYS:   DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS EXERCISE.   IF YOU STOP AT ONE SECTION, BUT DO THE BEST WORK POSSIBLE THAT IS MOST IMPORTANT.   IF YOU CAME HERE MORE ADVANCED, BUT HAVE TROUBLE AT ONE LEVEL, THEN BACK DOWN TO THE PREVIOUS LEVEL, AND GET THAT DONE CORRECTLY BEFORE MOVING ON.   CORRECTLY GOING ON MEANS THAT THE DOG CAN PERFORM THE TASK WITHOUT TREAT OR CORRECTION FOUR OUT OF FIVE TIMES. Equipment Needed: 6' Leash (to begin with) Training Collar (martingale, metal chain collar, or prong collar) 15' Leash (after four out of five stays while on the move with distractions can be accomplished at more than a 6' distance WITH distractions present) Explanation and Goal of Exercise:  The dog is required to perform the position of the command, and stay there until the release word is given.   The handler/owner will be increasing the duration first, add in distractions, and finally add on distance from the dog to this exercise. ...

  Equipment Needed: 6’ Leash, Training Collar, OR a Slip Lead   Explanation and Goal of Exercise:  The goal of heeling is to have your dog in an exact position for ease of movement in a busy city, or when you are bringing in the groceries, or just so you don't trip over your dog. Heeling also keeps your dog focused on you rather than jumping on an interesting human or dog OR becoming snarky with a passing stranger or stra nge dog.   Also teaches the owner the concept of slack leash = more control. So that the opposition reflex of a taunt reach does not kick in OR the formula for aggression that restraint + frustration = aggression. We are teaching the dog to decide correctly and be focused on their "job". A dog's job can be as simple as allowing for a stress-free walk in the city.     Due to the configuration of training collars and the need to pick a side, generally heeling is on the left-hand side of the handler, dog is ideally a foot away from the han...

 Sit on The Dog (This is really closer to week 2 work): Sits First Command : Still Sit Stay : Send to Place : Circle Place : Long Place (really week 2 work and I usually do them separately): Let's Go : Transitional Leash :

 Sit on The Dog (This is really closer to week 2 work): Sits First Command : Still Sit Stay : Send to Place : Circle Place : Long Place (really week 2 work and I usually do them separately): Let's Go : Transitional Leash :

    Equipment Needed:  6’ Leash, Training Collar, OR a Slip Lead   Explanation and Goal of This Exercise:   The interim sit correction is used to get the dog used to what the collar correction alone will feel like.  This exercise is teaching the dog that the correction means they missed performing a command .  In this way, the correction can be light the way it is meant to be later on.  The purpose of collar corrections is not only this communication, but this allows the owner to keep standing but able to communicate quickly.  This step in-between allows for that.  The goal for this week will be to do four in a row without needing the correction (which means it is very important to use the well-timed correction when it is needed).   You will want to do this (with the heeling) for a half an hour a day.   STEP 1 :  Heel with your dog, but be sure that your dog is in good heel position before preparing for the sit ...

   PART 1 WALK AND SIT WITH ME (NO COMMANDS) ON LEASH:    NOTE1:  BECAUSE THIS IS A BEHAVIORAL EXERCISE, COMMANDS ARE NOT USED TRADITIONALLY. NOTE2:  I HAVE ONLY MOSTLY PART 1 WITH FOXIE SO FAR. STEP 1:    Make sure you put the transitional leash on correctly for handling your dog with the nose loop on and the safety attached to his collar.   STEP 2:   You can either start walking or start your dog off in a relaxed sit, and then start walking. STEP 3A:   In the very beginning, I stop at the first pressure the dog puts on the leash.   Also in the beginning you usually need to pull up on the leash to get them to sit.  Once the dog relaxes, I will walk again until the next time. STEP 3B:   When the dog has a handle on this concept, I may pull back slightly with my hand on the leash if I feel tension, but the dog is doing pretty okay.   Then I make up either paces or objects to which I will stop a...

PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION. NOTE ON STAYS:   DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS EXERCISE.   IF YOU STOP AT ONE SECTION, BUT DO THE BEST WORK POSSIBLE THAT IS MOST IMPORTANT.   IF YOU CAME HERE MORE ADVANCED, BUT HAVE TROUBLE AT ONE LEVEL, THEN BACK DOWN TO THE PREVIOUS LEVEL, AND GET THAT DONE CORRECTLY BEFORE MOVING ON.   CORRECTLY GOING ON MEANS THAT THE DOG CAN PERFORM THE TASK WITHOUT TREAT OR CORRECTION FOUR OUT OF FIVE TIMES. Equipment Needed: 6' Leash (to begin with) Training Collar (martingale, metal chain collar, or prong collar) Explanation and Goal of Exercise:   The dog is required to perform the position of the command, and stay there until the release word is given.   The handler/owner will be increasing the durati...